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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well lads,

Did anyone ever come across this problem.

I was out in the corrado last night about ten or so miles when i got home it was ticking over for a few minutes. After getting out of it after a few minutes there was a puddle of coolant under the car.

The car is a VR6 engine, i took off the two hoses going into and from the block this morning the top one was a complete bastard to get off because of the clip. Anyway the hoses seemed like new, with no obvious rips of tears. The plastic unit they go into was also looking good thoiugh very hard to see all of it.

has anyone experienced it, the coolant was very brown and needed changing anyway,

im putting this down to one of the hoses not being clipped properly and becoming moved when i was revving the car

unless anyone else can shed light on it.

i will be flushing and refilling the unit later
 

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QUOTE (vagslag @ Apr 8 2011, 03:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>id say so are these hard to get???
No, Id buy an alloy/ssteel one so you'll never have to look at it again,

Visit My Website

BG
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Brian.G @ Apr 8 2011, 03:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>No, Id buy an alloy/ssteel one so you'll never have to look at it again,

Visit My Website

BG

i was thinking of something different then Brian i was thinking the unit where both pipes meet in the block the inlet and outlet its a square box type unit.

I may refill and run it over the weekend to see properly where the water is coming from
 

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QUOTE (vagslag @ Apr 8 2011, 03:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>i was thinking of something different then Brian i was thinking the unit where both pipes meet in the block the inlet and outlet its a square box type unit.

I may refill and run it over the weekend to see properly where the water is coming from
The housing on the right hand side then?
 

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It's either the theromstat housing or the crack pipe.

Don't buy a spurious housing, they don't fit.
 

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Thermostat housings are prone to cracking, crack pipes are fine unless you're working round them as the nipple for the oil cooler outlet is very easily broken. Sounds like your thermo housing is cracked.
 

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Crack pipe or stat housing - the housing is very complex as it comes in several parts.

Not worth getting second hand or spurious - best to replace with a metal pipe and OEM housing and seals - I beleive they can be had cheaper from Ford as they also use the VR6 engine.
 

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i dont have the vr6 corrado but same thing happened to me, the plastic housing that attaches the rad pipes to your engine block broke up internal, in the plastic housing. stick your finger into the plastic housing and see if you can feel any small plastic parts.

but if you had green coolent in the corrado, it must be somewhat obvious where its leaking from. might be something simple like an O ring ... anyway good luck fixing it.

any pics of your corrado, any mods? (apart from wetting its self
)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lads all great suggestions would you believe i only got the coolant yesterday, the green stuff could not be got in limerick until yesterday, will go at it tonight and report back

as for pictures will post some this week
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (vagslag @ Apr 12 2011, 09:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>lads all great suggestions would you believe i only got the coolant yesterday, the green stuff could not be got in limerick until yesterday, will go at it tonight and report back

as for pictures will post some this week

ok so lads i finally got at the corrado earlier. the coolant is leaking from here:

if you stand at the passenger side of the car looking in at the engine there are two pipes connected to the block. the top pipe goes to the rad. there is a small leak in the plastic area behind the top pipe. its a very small leak and only happens when the car is hot.

is imagine this is the termostat housing. It needs replacing for sure. I have a few questions based on the advice got,

Where is the best place to get one?? fairly fast ( i have the nct next wednesday the 20th)

is it a garage job?? or would anyone chance it themselves.??

anyone have the part number etc.

thanks lads

glemm you have PM
 

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You'll change it handy enough yourself if you're anyway competent. Make sure and order a new o-ring/sealing ring for it too.

Just ring your dealer with the chassis number and ask for a thermosat housing and o-ring and they'll know exactly what you're talking about. Only buy genuine would be my recommendation. You can try TPS up here in the North, usually a fair bit cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (viw28 @ Apr 13 2011, 07:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You'll change it handy enough yourself if you're anyway competent. Make sure and order a new o-ring/sealing ring for it too.

Just ring your dealer with the chassis number and ask for a thermosat housing and o-ring and they'll know exactly what you're talking about. Only buy genuine would be my recommendation. You can try TPS up here in the North, usually a fair bit cheaper.

Thanks for that the last job i tackled that someone on here said it was handy was the heater matrix on my MK 2 golf ha ha ha what a lie, my hands were like ribbons for weeks!!!!!!

Just this once ill let the mechanic tackle this he can service it the same day aswell and put the two new rear shocks on,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi lads sorry to go on with this now

i should have the part from ken on tuesday

i was sizing it up earlie on top of the housing there is a box where the HT leads go into 6 in all

there are 4 alloy heads holding this on.

if i take this off to get access will it go straight on???

or is this just a job for a mechaic altogether??
 

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Here's what to do..

1. Remove the engline plastics in the way of the coil pack on the left hand side of the engine

2. Remove the coilpack using a 5mm allen key to remove the 4 bolts that secure it to timing cover. Just set this up on the manifold out of the way with leads still attached or remove leads if you wish.

3. Unclip all hoses at the thermostat housing (you will see this clearer now the coilpack is out of the way)

4. Unplug yellow, blue and brown (only if you have A/C) plugs

5. Unbolt the thermostat housing using your 5mm allen key again. Two long bolts near the front of the engine and one short one at the rear side of the housing

6. carefully wiggle the thermostat housing free from the crack pipe (pipe which runs from housing to water pump across front of block)

Coolant will piss everywhere at this stage, you could drain it beforehand if you wish but a certain amount will be retained in the system anyhow.

7. replace o-ring on end of crack pipe

8. Remove 3 (or 2 with no A/C) sensors from old housing and fit to new one. Worth replacing the blue one as it can be prone to fail and is vital for correct fuelling.

9. fit new o-ring in new thermostat housing

10. fit new thermostat housing and hoses etc in the reverse order of above

11. top up coolant, system should bleed itself

Done
 
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