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Discussion starter · #82 ·
QUOTE(enda1winger @ Nov 21 2007, 12:14 AM) [snapback]91679[/snapback]
Fare play to ya dave when i first heard about it i laughed, just because didn't think it was for real
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Just a wee note on 5 linking the back axel, i wouldn't bother with the 4 link bars as they only stop the axel from twisting under power iv broke them and never made a difference to handling, but for sure do the 5th link or even if you want to get tricky you could go for a watts linkage set up
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as either will make a massive difference to handling, as im sure u have it well looked into.


I forgot we had an Escort man on board,what exactly is a watts linkage and how does it differ
from the 5 point?

My back axel should not twist under power as its front wheel drive,unlike the Scort

QUOTE(razor @ Nov 21 2007, 02:51 AM) [snapback]91692[/snapback]
Dave u F**king nutter! now put a Turbo on it.
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do it!!!!!! man id love to see that Van.......


I was in talks with Aaron about a charger but I just dont have the room for it unless I
cut out the inner wing but there is a load of room down the back for a turbo
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The first thing to be done are the chains anyway.
 
This is gona be some Caddy......im used to Brisk caddy's with joe powers silly TDI thats about 160somthing BHP but this is gona be mental and all kitted out inside aswell!!!!!like i said Dave "Turbo"!!!!
 
Rwd caddy could be different
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I was just thinking there today about the setup and the fact that you will still be running leaf springs on the back ........or did i miss a bit, i used to run the escort on leaf springs with a 5 link set up.......it was great .....until i moved up to coilovers and did away with the leaf's, and the difference was unreal for handling, so up to u if you want to go down that road, but if you did you would deffo have to 4 link the Axel, if you look at the pic below you can see 4 bars 2 each side of the axel 1 top and 1 bottom running from the body-shell to the Axel, these bars need to be nearly exactly the same length and mounted at the same point of the body-shell to ensure the car doesnt (crab) while driving. it sounds like alot of work but its not really once you get a grasp of what has to be done (im an electrician and i could do it
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)
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Ok thats the 4 link bars now its either 5 link or watts linkage, the 5th link or (pan-hard rod) is basically a bar that is mounted from a point on one side of the axle to a well braced tower on the body-shell that must run parallel to the ground when the normal weight is on the car this just basically stops the axle from moving from side to side, also polly bushes or stainless ball arm ends are used between axle and body.
The watts linkage or also know as 6 linking is instead of a 5 link bar, which i couldn't find any pics of but this link should give you a good idea about it.
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Im not great at explaining these things on paper but if you do go ahead with it id be more than happy to give ya any help i can with it, its not really that hard to do i did my escort in about 2 weeks after work on my own and made all parts myself so a cheap job at the end of it.
 
was thinking about this yesterday, and fine if you're going down the road of coilovers then you might want to think about a 5 link or similar setup, but there's no point really. all those systems are really aimed at doing is controlling the movement of the axle as you come on and off the power.

you dont have a driven rear axle so if you're gonna fab a custom suspension for the rear i'd just go with some form of wishbone setup, hell if you dont mind loosing some loadspace you could just throw in a front subframe and struts.

i'd leave it on leafs for now, and if you really want some funky suspension then look at a compact double wishbone setup?
 
Thanks a lot for the info and pics Enda.If I go ahead with the job it will be the 5 link
set up and I will defo be using coilovers.It looks like a simple enough design and there
is no reason why the Escort stuff wont work in the Caddy.

Did you make the linking bars yourself or is there a kit you can buy.

Is that a pan hard rod I see in the pic (blue bar) It looks to be height adjustable
on the right to keep it parallel if you lower the car.

Im going to run the van with the normal set up first and see how it works but the back
end of a standard caddy is scary enough without a heavy 6 pot in the front.

@Johnboy,I think there would be twice as much work involved in fitting a subframe or
double wisbone set up.
 
QUOTE(enda1winger @ Nov 21 2007, 11:46 PM) [snapback]91887[/snapback]

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Well the setup in the pic is actually a watts setup, the tower you see on the right with the adjustment holes is the lower half of the setup. if you look on the left hand side of the pic just below the axle you can see another blue bar this is the upper bar with adjustment as well, also see can you see the triangulated chassis mounts on each side, this is for a group 4 escort but i would go for something similar as you never know what could happen,

I made all the bars and boxes myself and bought polly bushes and inserted them very easly,

I have a 00 caddy and i got fairly worried when i heard about the power and the std back suspension setup that might be used, I would say that the load sensitive brakes on the back have been throw out the window already
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I hate them only way to drive it is with half a ton in the back
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Some job. Suppose it will be next summer before it will be out????
 
Dave you spacer that van will be some crack, best of luck with the final touches
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twould be just as much work alright dave, but for a lot more benefit. the escorts have live axle rwd, you have front wheel drive, you dont need to retain the tube axle is my point.

the trailing arms and watts linkage with coilovers are the best way of controlling a live axle rwd setup, but would be years behind the handling and adjustability that an independant setup would give, for similar engineering effort.

just my 2 cents
 
Well spotted on the watts linkage enda! Was wondering myself why they would have made the panhard rod that short. Better view of the watts linkage bits:
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If you're doing anything like that I definitely agree about the indepenent suspension - but having said that you need to do your homework as it's easy to get wrong, a badly designed IRS will be worse than a good live axle. If it was really me I'd get the coilovers, put them in and then decide how much work I'd want to do. I think you'll find that getting the right spring rates/damping will do wonders to what you already have there.
 
Dave, Burton power sell all the bits you need, as will any mk 1/2 escort specialist. Independant suspension would be a better job though. Escort systems are for things like axle location, anti tramp etc. Its a lot of extra work and weight, when the axle isn't live. MK 5 golf rear set up would be a better template to work off of. Just my opinion. If its any use to you, i have the Rally prep manual Boreham issued for mk 1/2 set up. Even the mighty GRP 4 mk 2 used a vw beetle jack!!!! YOu can't beat a dub.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Jimmy PM'd me around this time last year asking me what engine mounts I used
and how I worked the rad/front pannel but I never heard from him since
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Did you see it finished or get any good or bad reports?
 
QUOTE(Dieseldave @ Dec 6 2007, 10:59 PM) [snapback]94243[/snapback]
Jimmy PM'd me around this time last year asking me what engine mounts I used
and how I worked the rad/front pannel but I never heard from him since
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Did you see it finished or get any good or bad reports?


Yea it was finished ill go look for the link now, im sure theres loads of pics some where, spoke to the new owner at inters he was in the van so its deffo a runer.

*EDIT*

Heres some http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?t=13715
 
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