N75j Valve
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
QUOTE (alfa @ Jan 8 2006, 09:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>DOES ANYONE HAVE THE PART NO FOR THE N75J VALVE
TANX
ALAN
034906283J - 3B engine in early S2
only use this if you have a non remapped/chipped engine as itll cause limp mode or dtcs.
TANX
ALAN
034906283J - 3B engine in early S2
only use this if you have a non remapped/chipped engine as itll cause limp mode or dtcs.
QUOTE (johnny99 @ Jan 8 2006, 10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Went looking through my diary for it, and guess what, 2 minutes later,,,,,,.
Totally correct advise as well.
Has anyone tried the H version ??
John
yup ive tried c, f, j and h,
the best i found for a remapped car was the standard valve, in my case the F.
i had a rr session a while back and managed to run two other seperate valves having reset the ecu before each run, not 100% conclusive but you can see the differences, the two shown on the rr are the c and j. the C actually did slightly better than the j on the day, im putting it down to the c being a closer match to the f than the j.
![]()
and below, the two sets of runs on vagcom
![]()
Totally correct advise as well.
Has anyone tried the H version ??
John
yup ive tried c, f, j and h,
the best i found for a remapped car was the standard valve, in my case the F.
i had a rr session a while back and managed to run two other seperate valves having reset the ecu before each run, not 100% conclusive but you can see the differences, the two shown on the rr are the c and j. the C actually did slightly better than the j on the day, im putting it down to the c being a closer match to the f than the j.
and below, the two sets of runs on vagcom
QUOTE (alfa @ Jan 8 2006, 10:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>DIDN'T KNOW THERE WAS A H VERSION, KNOW THERE IS A F VERSION, WHATS THE DIFFERENCE IN THEM ALL.....?
WHATS BEST SUITED FOR A REMAPED AUM ENGINE BY UPSOLUTE DOES ANYONE KNOW...?
ANY HELP WOUL BE GREAT,
ALAN
standard valve for your motor mate. upsolute, revo and apr are all fairly good maps but stage 1 is only mapped to get the est out of your standard system, start changing bits and you'll soon want stage 2.
WHATS BEST SUITED FOR A REMAPED AUM ENGINE BY UPSOLUTE DOES ANYONE KNOW...?
ANY HELP WOUL BE GREAT,
ALAN
standard valve for your motor mate. upsolute, revo and apr are all fairly good maps but stage 1 is only mapped to get the est out of your standard system, start changing bits and you'll soon want stage 2.
Joined
·
89 Posts
I spent hours sifting through SEATCUPRA.NET on this topic when I had my Ibiza. Everybody has different opinions. Fitting a different vavle will just change the way your car interprets the information given to it by the ECU. If you've had you ECU remapped or recoded you will simply be tricking the car into re-acting differently to the information that someone has spent hours of research time, developing for your car. Any good tuner eg. Jabbasport or Revo to name a couple will advise to stick with your standard valve if your gonna get your car chipped or if it's chipped already. After all whats the point in paying €600+ for a new map if your gonna spend another €90 on a valve that will ignore it.
If you've got a standard car and wanna just spend €90 on tuning then give it a go. But all your paying for is a electronic bleed valve which you have no control over. It just alters how the ECU controls the wastegate and delays it reaction to those figures.
Thats just what I found from off seatcupra.net anyway, I had a Jabba Chip which is for sale if anyone is interested from when I swapped to REVO which was fantastic.
Boyd
If you've got a standard car and wanna just spend €90 on tuning then give it a go. But all your paying for is a electronic bleed valve which you have no control over. It just alters how the ECU controls the wastegate and delays it reaction to those figures.
Thats just what I found from off seatcupra.net anyway, I had a Jabba Chip which is for sale if anyone is interested from when I swapped to REVO which was fantastic.
Boyd
I normally judge things by how the car feels when driven - my ARZ gti was mapped by logica (w/ upsolute) and I ran it for a few months on the standard n75 valve - then after reading various different experiences on uk-mkivs.net I decided to try out an n75j - the difference was very noticable. Way better throttle response, pulls harder low down and generally feels quite a bit faster & more repsonsive. I haven't noticed any tailing off in the upper rev range (no more so that with standard valve) and I've had no problems with limp mode or overboost.
My deduction is that the n75j is a good improvement over stock for a remapped ARZ (but I've no clue how it'll perform on an AUM and I have read it's not suited to this particular engine code).
So bang for buck it's definitely worth it on an Upsoluted ARZ (and from what I read on uk-mkivs.net also Upsoluted AGU's)
My deduction is that the n75j is a good improvement over stock for a remapped ARZ (but I've no clue how it'll perform on an AUM and I have read it's not suited to this particular engine code).
So bang for buck it's definitely worth it on an Upsoluted ARZ (and from what I read on uk-mkivs.net also Upsoluted AGU's)
Joined
·
83 Posts
Sorry for butting in here, but I've seen a number of posts on different forums about this valve. Can someone quickly explain what it's about!
I have a good knowledge of conventional turbo/wastegate/actuators from my previous cars. How exactly does the pd engine regulate the boost?
I have a standard pd130 6sp B5.5 Passat. What can I expect it to do for my engine?
I have a good knowledge of conventional turbo/wastegate/actuators from my previous cars. How exactly does the pd engine regulate the boost?
I have a standard pd130 6sp B5.5 Passat. What can I expect it to do for my engine?
PD 130 uses a Garrett VNT15 turbo. Boost is controlled by vanes in the exhaust side of the turbo, facing the turbine. When the vanes change direction, by what looks like a wastegate actuator, the speed of the turbo is controlled, which in turn control's boost pressure.
The N75 valve is basically a boost control valve. The different type's control at a different speed, the lower the letter the faster it opens/close's. The slower it operates the boost can be held for longer. If the boost is held for to long, the ECU can go into limp mode and restrict performance.
Mapping/chipping controls the signal to the N75 valve, but takes into account the amount of fuel needed to keep the correct air/fuel ratio. If the valve is increased to a higher letter, this alter's the correct air fuel ratio, and will run slightly leaner. If one goes too far and runs alot leaner, combustion tempretures will rise, which is not good for the engine or turbocharger.
Some increased boost can be gotten from this valve, even after it is chipped. If the car has been mapped on a rolling road correctly, I would hesitate to change the valve.
This is only my 2 cent worth on the N75 valve, and the differing views will be argued over for a long time.
John
The N75 valve is basically a boost control valve. The different type's control at a different speed, the lower the letter the faster it opens/close's. The slower it operates the boost can be held for longer. If the boost is held for to long, the ECU can go into limp mode and restrict performance.
Mapping/chipping controls the signal to the N75 valve, but takes into account the amount of fuel needed to keep the correct air/fuel ratio. If the valve is increased to a higher letter, this alter's the correct air fuel ratio, and will run slightly leaner. If one goes too far and runs alot leaner, combustion tempretures will rise, which is not good for the engine or turbocharger.
Some increased boost can be gotten from this valve, even after it is chipped. If the car has been mapped on a rolling road correctly, I would hesitate to change the valve.
This is only my 2 cent worth on the N75 valve, and the differing views will be argued over for a long time.
John
Joined
·
83 Posts
Cheers for your detailed explanation. I have read that a pd115 running a pd130 maf and boost valve will give a noticable change. However, does that mean there is nothing I can change mine with, or is there?
After reading elsewhere about cutting out the plastic mesh (and leaving the steel one behind it) in the maf, I did it last night. I figured it was safe enough as the top of my air filter is always clean, no debris or leaves or anything. I think I nothiced a difference in performance, seems more eager to rev and the turbo is certainly louder spooling up. Apparently somebody figured the plastic obstructs 30% of the airflow.
After reading elsewhere about cutting out the plastic mesh (and leaving the steel one behind it) in the maf, I did it last night. I figured it was safe enough as the top of my air filter is always clean, no debris or leaves or anything. I think I nothiced a difference in performance, seems more eager to rev and the turbo is certainly louder spooling up. Apparently somebody figured the plastic obstructs 30% of the airflow.
Removeing the mesh will give a very small increase in air flow, and I mean very small. You will notice a very small increase in response, but not in max air flow.
The 30% increase in flow is very debateable, to say the least.
I don't know about the MAF sensor change, are they not the same ?, maybe someone on the forum knows.
John
The 30% increase in flow is very debateable, to say the least.
I don't know about the MAF sensor change, are they not the same ?, maybe someone on the forum knows.
John
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
