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Braided Brake Lines

2.4K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  neilc  
#1 ·
is it worth changing to braided brake lines and is it worth doing it now when there is nothing in the engine bay??
cheers
 
#2 ·
Braided lines only go from the caliper to the ridge line in the wheel arch.

Well worth doing.
 
#4 ·
Anyone NCT a car with these? Oh and as the lads said , well worth doing , but they're only out at the wheels in front , and over the axle at the rear.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
There are no issues with these and the NCT, my car has been tested twice with them and nothing ever said about them.

There are three sets for a golf, there's a 4 piece set for cars with drums on the rear, a 6 piece for disc set up and another 6 piece set for rallye, I haven't seen the two 6 piece sets side by side so don't know the difference. Could be something to do with the 4wd set up.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
QUOTE(neil @ Jan 1 2007, 11:55 PM) [snapback]44925[/snapback]
There are no issues with these and the NCT, my car has been tested twice with them and nothing ever said about them.

There are three sets for a golf, there's a 4 piece set for cars with drums on the rear, a 6 piece for disc set up and another 6 piece set for rallye, I haven't seen the two 6 piece sets side by side so don't know the difference. Could be something to do with the 4wd set up.


how far back to the master cylinder do they go?
the pipes in my car arent the best even back where they bend in the engine bay
 
#7 ·
QUOTE(colton @ Jan 2 2007, 10:42 AM) [snapback]44958[/snapback]
who far back to the master cylinder do they go?
the pipes in my car arent the best even back where they bend in the engine bay


They only replace the flexible hoses which only go from the rigid ones to the caliper, they are only a few inches long.

To replace the rigid pipe you can get copper ones. It comes in a roll and has to be bent to shape and the nuts fitted and ends flaired.

I've been through the NCT with braded lines too, no problems.

The 6 piece set has two for the front calipers, two for the rear caliper and two to go over the rear axel.
 
#8 ·
QUOTE(DaveQ @ Jan 2 2007, 11:10 AM) [snapback]44964[/snapback]
They only replace the flexible hoses which only go from the rigid ones to the caliper, they are only a few inches long.

To replace the rigid pipe you can get copper ones. It comes in a roll and has to be bent to shape and the nuts fitted and ends flaired.
I've been through the NCT with braded lines too, no problems.

The 6 piece set has two for the front calipers, two for the rear caliper and two to go over the rear axel.


whats to stop me from putting in entire braided lines??
 
#9 ·
QUOTE(colton @ Jan 2 2007, 12:15 PM) [snapback]44972[/snapback]
whats to stop me from putting in entire braided lines??


Nothing but why fix something that's not broken unless there is actually something wrong with the existing piping. The braided lines although just a short run are probably as close you can get to solid piping hence this is why people change. Standard rubber types can swell under pressure and with age can crack etc.

Agree with previous that this should not interfere with NCT.
 
#11 ·
Just buy some copper brake lines and re-do the lot.

Only do this if you are competent enough as this is whats between you and a serious accident!
 
#12 ·
I fitted the Goodridge braided hoses last month just before the NCT great job, I got a 6 Line kit for 45 sterling which was a bargin, id say it would cost more to buy the normal ones from a local motor factors!

got new coppers fitted from front to back, sure a roll of that stuff is only 11 euro
 
#13 ·
QUOTE(RedLexus @ Jan 2 2007, 12:28 PM) [snapback]44976[/snapback]
Braided the whole way would also cost an arm and a leg.......

200 euro to do complete car bought the pipe and connections and made them up myself.
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#14 ·
I have the braided hoses on my own 8v GTI and well worth it, never have to worry about NCT again, and they do make a difference with braking under pressure, no swelling of brake lines, all the hydraulic pressure is pushed down into the calipers.
 
#15 ·
QUOTE(nicky @ Jan 2 2007, 06:07 PM) [snapback]45032[/snapback]
200 euro to do complete car bought the pipe and connections and made them up myself.
Image



who did you get the pipe and connector from?
 
#16 ·
QUOTE(colton @ Jan 5 2007, 08:41 AM) [snapback]45441[/snapback]
who did you get the pipe and connector from?


try crazyquiff in UK who as far as I know have full sets available for cheaper than 200.

IMO given we are talking brakes I would not attempt a DIY job on this - this last thing you need is 850kg travelling at high speed (but within legal limits
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) and nothing to stop it !
 
#17 ·
QUOTE(colton @ Jan 5 2007, 08:41 AM) [snapback]45441[/snapback]
who did you get the pipe and connector from?

got them from a local supplier here in wexford,and i would not worry about making them up yourself piece of piss
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built 3 rally cars with them never any problem
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and i dont know if you can buy the kit complete not from the master cylinder anyway.
Image
 
#18 ·
Lads try

http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/product_i...roducts_id=1906

I got all the kit required of them including fittings for much less that 200 STG. You use reusable fittings with braded stainless hose. They are like plumbing fittings, they use an olive that compresses to seal the joint. no special tools used.get your self a few extra olives in case you f^%k up. The hose is rated 12000PSI min burst pressure. I think it will hold back me Mk1.

Pat
 
#19 ·
Braided hoses only stop outward pressure, so if you run braided hoses the lenght of the car, the hose will stretch with the pressure causing sagging line and a soft pedal, which is what you are trying to avoid!

Copper tubing will hold serious pressure without rupturing, stretching, etc.
It's not as strong as the steel lines in the car but will last longer as it won't corrode as quick.